Perhaps you, like many rock climbers, regularly train on artificial rock walls; now you find yourself in a stagnant platform. This may be because your training method is not correct enough, and perhaps there are some ambiguities in the way and style of setting your route. The following points out the six major mistakes that should be avoided.
It is often established that all fulcrums can be used as a footing
The worst mistake is to set the route from the point of view only, and then let the foot freely step on any point. This encourages a lazy way of climbing. You don't have to twist your body to adjust to the less suitable feet. In this way, your torso elasticity, that is, your ability to stretch your back and abdomen, stretch your legs, and keep the toes firmly fixed on the far feet will gradually weaken; you will not practice the flexibility of the hips. If you really need more options than your hand on your feet, add some tiny feet to the rock wall.
The same fulcrum stays in the same position for a long time
It doesn't make much sense to do the same thing again and again in adulthood. Of course, you can skim these moves, but other aspects will not improve. Once these routes are completed, you should remove all pivots and start over. If you always have some routes to stay there for a long time, you will soon become obsolete.
Only climb your own route
If you hate climbing someone else's designated route, it may be because these routes make you feel unnatural and uncomfortable. This shows that they are exactly what you need to improve. Try other people's ideas, you can find your own weaknesses, and you will get bigger and faster gains than just climbing to adapt to your own route.
Only rock wall training at the same angle
Most climbers have an angle that they are good at. From this perspective, they perform best. We tend to ignore the angles we are not good at or seem to be exciting. However, whenever possible, you should try your best to broaden your reach. You can at least make appropriate transitions and experience different rocky terrain. Do you think the rock wall at a small angle is too simple? Try using only flat friction points. What is the topography of the roof? It is not enough to install some big and deep points.
Set up many difficult routes
It's a waste of time to spend all your time trying things that you can't do. If you set some lines that you can work hard to complete, your training will be more effective and your passion will be more abundant. Adjust your route according to the actual situation. When you are finished, you can make the route harder, such as reversing the direction of some key points, or moving them slightly, increasing the span, etc.
Always set up a route that can be completely statically completed
If you don't force yourself to practice dynamic moves, you can't be a bouldering person. At the very least, you must learn to use the DEADPOINT action where it cannot be locked. Choose a comfortable target point and incorporate long-distance dynamic movements or elastic force movements into your route. This will help increase strength and improve coordination.
Original source: v7plus.com
May 2003 Translation
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